Leaky Power Steering Pump Repair

 

The Problem: A leak of power steering fluid with no apparent path. Hoses look satisfactory and nothing apparently wrong with the steering gear box. No fluid inside the belt pulley on the pump shaft.

Applicability: Had this problem with my '79 300SD as well as with the '87 560SEC, and will therefore assume that most (all?) MB have a potential for this leak.

Tools used:
17 and 19 mm wrenches for the power steering lines on the pump
13 mm socket for the bolts holding the pump in place
6 mm allen wrench for the belt tensioner (works really great with a battery powered electric drill)

The process:
Opened the top of the pump and used my vacuum pump and brake bleeding jar to remove the Power Steering Fluid (PSF). Put the lid back on to maintain cleanness. Removed both hoses, plugging the holes in the pump and covering the hose ends. The hose with the 19 mm fitting was easy to remove with the pump installed on the mounting plate. The hose with the 17 mm fitting was easier to remove once the pump had been unbolted from the mounting plate and pulled up out of the engine bay. A 17 mm crowsfoot might have worked but I didn't have one.
The o-ring in question is behind the cover on the back of the pump. The back cover has an internal spring that presses it against the large clip holding it in place. A large (8" or larger) c-clamp can be used to press the back cover into the pump enough to unload the clip (1/16" is enough). On the 300SD, I placed the pump on my floor jack pulley down, placed a large socket on the back plate, and jacked the pump up under the front bumper! Crude, but it worked to unload the cover and allow the retaining clip to be removed.

Remove the retaining clip and the back cover. I needed to tap the cover with a plastic hammer to allow the internal spring to push the plate out of the pump. The cover is over 3/8" thick. Remove the internal spring and notice that the small end goes over a knob inside the pump and the larger end pushes on the back cover. These are the only parts "loose". Nothing else will fall out of the pump.

The o-ring is in a groove around the outside of the hole and seals on the rim of the cover plate. The access hole in the back of the pump is 2.680" (6.80 cm) in diameter and the o-ring was 0.102" (0.250 cm) in cross section. I went to a local hydraulic equipment supplier and they made me an o-ring. I took the old one in to them, they found some 0.103" stock, cut the old o-ring in two and matched the length with their stock. A dab of cyanoacrylate glue to join the ends and we had an o-ring. I had them make one a little larger diameter and a little smaller "just in case". I would have preferred to use Viton for the o-ring but it was unavailable so we used Buna-N. None of us knew the chemical composition of PSF and couldn't verify that neoprene would be satisfactory. If it leaks again in several years, no big deal - it's fairly easy to replace. The 300SD o-ring was about 1 1/2" in diameter and sealed against the flat portion of the back cover. They may be different for different Mercedes, but the repair process was the same. Mercedes does not sell the o-ring for this repair but call around to find your local hydraulic equipment repair shop and they'll have or make your new o-ring.

Slathered the new o-ring with PSF and put the pump back together. When tensioning the pump, remember that the allen head cap screw for the belt tensioning mechanism is threaded into a breakable plastic block that pulls up the pump. It took less than one quart of PSF for this task. Filled the pump and started the engine. Ran it for about ten seconds, move the steering wheel just a little, then stopped the engine and refilled the reservoir (down by half). The manual says that the system can be bled by lifting the front wheels off the ground and, with the engine running, cycle the steering from stop to stop several times. I did it with the wheels on the ground and all was well. I now have a very clean pump and no more leaks.

- Contributed by Mike Ramay

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