I
just
fixed
this
problem
with
my
SEC.
This
was
an
ongoing
problem
for
me,
so
I
became
an
expert
while
troubleshooting.
The
two
components
that
are
responsible
for
controlling
idle
speed
are
idle
air
valve
which
is
located
near
the
distributor
and
upper
radiator
hose.
It
has
two
large
vacuum
hoses
(3/4
or
so)
and
a
plug
with
two
wires.
The
electronic
idle
control
unit
is
placed
on
the
firewall
and
is
a
small
4"
by
3"
black
box
to
the
right
of
the
larger
control
unit
with
a
large
plug.
You
cannot
confuse
the
two,
our
man
is
the
smaller
out
of
the
two.
As
some
of
you
already
know,
9
times
out
of
10
it
is
the
electronic
control
unit,
and
not
the
air
valve
that
is
faulty.
However,
what
I
recommend
doing
is
taking
the
valve
out
and
cleaning
it
thoroughly.
It
becomes
quite
dirty
over
the
years
of
use.
I
soaked
mine
for
4
hours
or
so
in
carburetor
cleaning
solution.
Maybe
someone
might
contribute
a
better
cleaning
method.
To
isolate
the
problem,
make
sure
that
the
valve
works
by
installing
it
back
in
the
car
after
cleaning
it
and
feeding
auxiliary
power
to
it
while
the
car
is
while
the
car
is
at
idle.
If
the
engines
starts
to
die
out
after
manually
closing
the
valve
with
auxiliary
power,
they
valve
is
functioning.
I
also
done
this:
before
I
installed
the
valve
to
make
sure
the
piston
was
moving
freely.
If
the
above
steps
were
completed
successfully,
it
is
the
electronic
control
module
that
is
at
fault.
Take
the
module
out
of
the
car
and
pop
off
the
cover.
It
can
be
removed
by
prying
the
six
clips
to
the
outside
and
sliding
the
cover
off.
Inspect
the
circuit
board
for
burned
components.
Note:
the
transistor
mounted
to
the
top
left
may
have
a
burned
spot
on
the
back
of
the
board,
but
it
is
due
to
the
high
temperature
the
transistor
reaches.
It
has
a
heatsink,
and
most
likely
it
is
okay.
Most
what
you
want
to
look
for
is
broken
solder
joints
on
the
back
of
the
board.
Might
be
hard
to
see,
so
put
the
unit
back
in
the
car
without
the
cover,
connect
it
and
start
the
car.
Then
start
playing
with
the
unit
like
you
are
a
7
year
old
child.
Bend
the
board
back
and
forth
slightly
and
see
if
the
idle
speed
changes.
If
it
does,
try
to
isolate
the
area
where
it
seems
to
be
problematic,
if
not,
you
might
have
a
bad
components
on
the
board.
In
this
case
you
buy
a
rebuild
one
($80-$125)
or
a
new
($200-$300).
Mark
the
area
that
seems
faulty
and
remove
the
unit
from
the
car.
Inspect
the
area
with
a
magnifying
glass
(on
the
back
of
the
board
mostly),
and
look
for
solder
joints
that
seems
to
have
a
circular
crack
around
the
base.
Resolder
these.
I've
resoldered
about
ten
joints
on
mine.
After
you
corrected
as
many
as
you
can
find,
put
the
unit
back
in
the
car
and
follow
the
same
procedures
until
you
got
the
fix.
I
had
to
do
this
several
times
because
stuff
is
so
hard
to
sometimes
see
on
the
board.
Who
knows,
maybe
it
might
be
a
simple
visible
problem
for
some
of
us.
This
is
what
solved
the
problem
for
me,
and
I
wish
the
same
luck
to
everyone.
-
Contributed
by
Serge
Maskalik
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